How to Remove Fly Screens Without Damaging Them
- Jonathan Bull
- Aug 9
- 20 min read
Updated: 6 days ago
If you've ever tried to remove a fly screen that simply refuses to come out, you'll know how frustrating it can be.
Here in Australia, fly screens are everywhere. Our hot weather, insects and spiders mean we often want our windows open, while keeping the bugs outside where they belong.
The problem is that there isn't one standard way to remove a fly screen.
Some screens lift straight out. Some have springs, tabs or plungers. Others have twist locks or clips. Some need the window itself removed first. Occasionally you'll come across a screen that seems to have been made just 1 mm too large for its opening.
I've been cleaning windows professionally for 25 years, and I think I've come across ever design out there.
The biggest lesson I've learned is simple:
Some fly screens are obvious. Others require a bit of inside knowledge.
This guide explains how to identify different screen fixing systems, how to approach a difficult screen, when you should leave it alone, and when a specialist fly screen removal tool can make the job much easier.
Before you try to remove a fly screen
The first mistake is to start pushing or pulling.
Before touching anything, take a few seconds to look at how the screen is held in place.
Ask yourself:
How is the screen retained?
Is there a tab, spring, clip, plunger, twist lock, or is it simply jammed in?
Can I see the mechanism from the inside or outside?
Which direction is the safest and easiest way to remove it?
Will I need to remove the window first?
If possible, look at the screen from both sides.
A professional window cleaner will usually work out the easiest method before applying any force. If you can remove the screen safely from inside rather than climbing a ladder to get at it from outside, that's usually the better option.
And if something isn't moving, don't simply use more force.
Stop, reassess how the screen is retained, and work out what's actually stopping it.
Where is the fly screen fitted, and where is it released?
Before trying to remove a fly screen, work out two separate things:
Is the screen fitted on the inside or outside of the window?
Where is the mechanism that holds it in place?
These are not necessarily the same thing.
A fly screen can be physically fitted to the outside of the window, but its retaining clips or plungers may be operated from the inside.
This is important because it's easy to assume that an external screen must be removed from outside. That's not always the case.
In fact, if you can release an external screen safely from inside, that can be a much better option, particularly when working at height. Normally it's possible to open the window wide enough to bring the screen inside.
Screens fitted on the outside
External fly screens can be held in place in several different ways.
The retaining mechanism might be:
Spring-loaded plungers operated from inside
Finger-tab plungers operated from inside
Sliding plungers operated from inside
Twist tabs operated from inside
Swivel clips operated from outside
Guides, channels and retaining tabs
So don't just look at where the mesh is sitting. Look for where the screen is actually retained.
You might be looking at a fly screen from outside and see a screen that appears to be firmly fixed in place. Before reaching for a ladder, check whether the retaining mechanism can actually be released from inside the house.
This can turn an awkward job at height into a much simpler job from inside.
Screens fitted on the inside
Internal screens also use a variety of systems. Some have springs built into the frame. Others use clips, tabs, plungers, Velcro or other retaining systems.
Again, don't assume that two screens in the same house will use the same method.
The key point
Where the screen sits is not necessarily where you remove it from.
An external screen may be released from inside.
An internal screen may have a mechanism that needs to be accessed from another part of the window.
So before climbing a ladder or trying to force anything, have a look from both sides if you can.
Don't just look at the screen. Look at how it's held.
Common fly screen retaining systems
There are many different ways fly screens can be retained. Here are some of the systems I've come across.
Spring-loaded side frames
Some internal fly screens have a spring built into one side of the screen frame.
The basic principle is to compress the spring-loaded side so that the opposite edge can clear the retaining channel.
These can be relatively straightforward once you recognise what you're looking at. Or in fact, once you feel the springiness. If you push the side frame of the screen into the window frame and feel a spongy push-back, you know there's a spring inside.
The trick is the push that entire side towards the spring, making sure the top and bottom corners of the fly screen are going into the spring-side of frame, which should mean the opposite side can get clear of it's window frame.
Springs on both sides of the frame
Some fly screens have springs built into both sides of the frame.
At first, it can look as though both springs need to be compressed at the same time to remove the screen. That's not necessary.
You only need to press the screen into one side far enough to create enough clearance for the opposite side to come out of its channel.
The spring on the other side isn't necessarily there to help with removal. Its job is to keep pressure on the screen once it's fitted, helping hold it firmly in the frame and preventing it from rattling in the wind.
Internal fly screens with two-finger spring clips
Another internal fly screen design uses small leaf spring clips on both sides of the window frame.
The clips are operated by pressing them with two fingers while pulling that side of the screen away from the frame.
These screens can be particularly awkward because the clips can hold the screen quite firmly.
When the screen has been fitted backwards
One problem I've come across with this type of screen is that it has sometimes been installed back to front.
The screen may look perfectly normal from inside the house, but the pull tab is actually facing outside.
That means there is no convenient tab to grab when you want to remove it.
This is one situation where the XPRT Fly Screen Remover can be particularly useful. The thin leading edge can get into the narrow gap and give you something to work with when there is no pull tab available.
Removing the screen
To remove this type of screen, press the spring clip with two fingers while pulling that side of the screen towards you.
Once one side is clear of the clip, the rest of the screen can usually be removed. The exact amount of movement required depends on how tightly the screen fits.
Refitting the screen
Refitting can be a little more difficult, particularly with smaller windows where the screen is a tight fit.
Start by placing the bottom edge of the screen into its groove.
Then gently twist the frame to get one side past the spring clip.
Once that side is in position, press along the top of the screen to make sure it is clearing the top of the window frame.
On a larger window, or where the screen has a little more clearance, the opposite side may simply press into place past the spring clip.
On a tighter-fitting screen, you may need to use the XPRT Fly Screen Remover to help create a small amount of controlled flex in the frame while pushing the screen towards the window.
Once the frame clears the clip, it should snap into position.
The important thing is not to force the screen excessively. If it isn't clearing the clip, reassess the angle and position of the frame rather than simply applying more pressure.
Fly screens with side leaf springs on casement windows
Some casement window fly screens are held by leaf springs along the sides of the frame.
The finger tab can be positioned quite high, making it awkward to reach safely. If the screen is outside or high up, reaching the tab may even mean using a ladder.
In this example, the XPRT Fly Screen Remover provides a simple way to pull the screen
towards you without needing to reach the high tab.
Refitting the screen
Refitting is slightly different. Get one side of the screen into the frame first (bottom edge first, then one side), using a slight twist to position it.
Then, as you push the other side into the frame, compress the leaf spring at the same time. Once the spring clears the frame, the screen can be pushed into position.
Spring-loaded plungers
Some external screens use spring-loaded plungers that are operated from inside the window.
The plunger retracts into the screen frame and releases it from a hole or retaining point.
Finger-tab plungers
Another design uses a small finger tab to operate the plunger.
These can be relatively straightforward once you recognise the mechanism.
Sliding plungers
Some screens use a sliding mechanism rather than a conventional spring-loaded plunger.
Twist tabs
Other external screens use small metal twist tabs that are rotated to release the screen.
The tab may have a small plastic or leather handle to make it easier to turn.
Swivel clips
Some screens are held in place with swivel clips on the outside of the window.
These rotate into position to retain the screen and then swivel away to release it.
The clips themselves can become a problem over time. Because they're exposed to the weather, plastic swivel clips can become brittle from UV exposure and snap off.
I've also seen the screw that holds the clip become loose, particularly where it is screwed into timber. The clip might still be there, but it no longer holds the screen firmly.
If the retaining clip is loose, using a screwdriver to tighten it normally helps. Try to get just the right amount of tension, so it's holding the screen firmly, but the swivel can still turn.
If the clip is damaged, it's time to replace it - they're easy to get hold of at a hardware.
Retaining clips for casement windows
Another type of clip is commonly found on casement windows.
These clips fit around the window frame and have a springy lip that the fly screen presses into on both sides of the frame.
They're a simple idea, but they're notorious for moving or disappearing.
The clips can slide down the frame, fall off completely, or snap.
When the original clips have been lost or damaged, some homeowners have added their own Velcro to hold the screen in place.
That can work well for keeping the screen attached, but it can create a completely different problem when you later need to remove it.
When a fly screen is held on with Velcro
I've come across internal screens on casement windows that have been attached using Velcro.
The adhesive side is attached to the window and the screen frame, while the Velcro holds the two together.
The problem is that some of these Velcro strips are surprisingly strong.
They're strong enough that little finger pull tabs can easily come off in your fingers. And simply pulling with your fingers can be nearly impossible, there's just nowhere to get a good grip on the fly screen frame.
This is one situation where the XPRT Fly Screen Remover can be particularly useful.
A sliding window can be the thing stopping the screen coming out
This is one that catches people out.
Some sliding windows are designed so that, even when the window is fully open, the window itself is still blocking one side of the fly screen.
It can look as though the screen simply cannot come out.
In some cases, the solution is to remove the sliding window first.
But first, make sure the window can actually come out.
Before removing a sliding window to access a fly screen, make sure the window itself can be safely lifted and removed. A large or double-glazed window may require two people, and some windows cannot be removed because later renovations have reduced the necessary clearance.
Removing a sliding window isn't always as straightforward as it sounds.
The window usually needs to be lifted high enough for the bottom edge to clear the track, then the bottom can be pulled towards you and the window lowered onto a suitable drop sheet or protected surface.
But there may not be enough clearance to do this.
Renovations can change the situation considerably. For example, a kitchen may have been retiled after the windows were installed, raising the level of the sill so there is no longer enough room to lift the window high enough to get the bottom out.
Plantation shutters can cause a similar problem. If a shutter frame has been installed around the window, the additional frame at the top and bottom can reduce the available clearance enough to prevent the window being removed.
Another common problem is the roller or adjustment mechanism at the bottom of the window being set too high.
On some windows, this can be adjusted with a Phillips-head screwdriver. The exact mechanism varies, so don't assume every window adjusts in the same way, but where an adjustment screw is provided, loosening it can allow the roller to move.
On most windows, loosening the adjustment screw allows the roller to move. Pressing down on the window can then allow the roller to move up, creating more clearance. Test the window carefully before attempting to remove it, and make sure the adjustment screw is tightened again afterwards.
Large windows can be surprisingly heavy
Even if the window does have enough clearance to come out, that doesn't necessarily mean you should remove it.
Large windows can be very heavy, particularly double-glazed units.
A window that looks manageable while it is sitting in its track can become awkward and difficult to control once it is lifted free.
For a large window, or a window that you aren't confident you can safely handle, get another person to help. Or leave the window in place.
Remember that you are not just lifting it out. You then need somewhere safe to put it down without damaging the glass, frame or surrounding surfaces.
If removing the window creates a lifting or handling risk, look for another way to remove or clean the screen.
If you can safely remove the window
Once the window is safely out of the way, the fly screen may have enough clearance to be removed.
This is one of those situations where knowing how the window system works is more useful than simply applying more force to the fly screen.
What if the pull tab is missing?
This is one situation where a specialist tool can become particularly useful.
Some screens have a small pull tab tucked into the frame. If the tab breaks off or is missing, there may be almost nothing to grab.
I've come across screens like this where the gap between the frame and the surrounding structure is extremely small.
In one example I filmed, the pull tab was missing. The XPRT Fly Screen Remover could be slipped into the narrow gap and used to get behind the frame.
When a fly screen is only 1 mm too big
This is a surprisingly common problem.
Fly screen frames are often manufactured very precisely. Being slightly too small generally isn't a major problem, although it can leave gaps where insects can get through.
Being slightly too large is a different story.
I've seen screens that are only around 1 mm too large become extremely difficult to install or remove, including in high-end homes.
Sometimes you can get one corner into position and then carefully flex the middle of the frame to shorten the effective length enough to get the other corner into place. But there's a catch.
Fly screen frames are not infinitely flexible.
Push them too far and you can permanently bend or buckle the frame.
A screen that was difficult to install can quickly become a damaged screen.
I've seen screens that have been left sitting awkwardly because the previous person simply couldn't get them fitted properly. I've even seen people resort to gaffer tape to close the resulting gaps.
If a screen is extremely tight, don't assume that brute force is the answer.
What if the screen is stuck?
A screen that has been sitting in a window for years can develop several problems.
Dirt and debris
The joints and gaps can become packed with dirt, insects and other debris. I've even encountered situations where spider webs or wasp nests have contributed to screens becoming stuck.
Rather than trying to move the screen suddenly, try to introduce small movements first and gradually loosen it.
Paint
External screens fitted against painted frames can sometimes become stuck to the paint.
A gentle, controlled tap can sometimes break the paint bond. You may even hear the paint crack as the screen separates.
The key word is gentle.
Don't force it blindly
If you've tried the obvious method and the screen isn't moving, stop and work out why.
The screen might be:
retained by a mechanism you haven't identified
obstructed by the window
stuck to paint
packed with debris
too tightly fitted
damaged already
More force doesn't solve all of those problems.
Sometimes the roller blind is the problem
Internal fly screens on wind-out or casement windows can create another strange situation.
At first glance, it may appear that the roller blind at the top of the window is stopping the screen from coming out. These can be removed with a flat head screwdriver, but there's often an easier way.
The blind can actually be part of the solution.
As you lower the blind, the roll becomes smaller. Keep lowering it until the roll is thin enough to allow the screen to pass it at the top of the window.
Then check the bottom.
The screen may also need to clear the window winder.
A small amount of controlled flex at the middle of the screen frame can sometimes help, but remember, the narrower the frame is, the more dramatically it needs to bend to get over the winder.
Therefore, this can be particularly difficult with small windows, such as small laundry or toilet windows, where there simply isn't enough room to manipulate the frame.
What can go wrong?
It's easy to underestimate how much damage you can do to a fly screen while trying to remove it.
The frame can develop:
A permanent bend
A small dent
Scratches
A buckle
Gaps that allow insects through
And there's another problem that is particularly relevant to professional window cleaners.
The screen can fall.
Years ago, while window cleaning at a university, I saw a fly screen come away from a window three floors above the ground.
People were walking around below. We were lucky.
The retaining tabs were so loose they came away in the fingers, and when the screen fell it also buckled.
That's an extreme example, but it illustrates why you need to think through what happens after the screen is released.
Why damaging a screen can become an expensive problem
Most window cleaners aren't screen repairers.
We're often asked if we can repair screens, but you can't realistically do every trade involved in maintaining a house.
Replacing the mesh itself is relatively straightforward if you have the right materials. The existing frame can normally be reused.
A bent frame is another matter.
The frame generally has internal corner brackets, and there are different sizes and styles. Older screens can be particularly difficult if the original components are no longer readily available.
Then there's the challenge of cutting the frame accurately.
Getting a clean 45-degree cut and producing a properly fitting frame is much harder than it looks without the right equipment and setup.
A screen repairer can do it properly, but now you've potentially added:
Another tradesperson
Another appointment
Repair costs
Another visit
Delays to the job
An annoyed client
A window cleaning job that should have taken a few hours can become a much bigger exercise because one screen was damaged.
That's why I'd rather spend a little time working out how a screen comes out than force it.
When you don't need to remove the screen
There are situations where the best decision is simply not to remove the screen.
If a screen is extremely tight or you're not confident that you can remove it safely, you may be better off cleaning around it.
Depending on the window system, you may be able to:
Remove the window and clean both sides
Clean the screen in place
Spray pure water through the screen to improve the glass and screen
It may not produce a perfect result, but that's better than damaging the screen or putting yourself in danger.
I'll cover how to properly clean fly screens in a separate article, including the different methods and equipment that can be used to get a better result without removing them.
What about security screens?
Security screens are a different category altogether. Don't use a fly screen removal tool or regular screwdriver on a security screen.
Look for a brand name or identifying mark on the screen and contact the manufacturer or a security screen company for advice. In some situations, a locksmith may be appropriate.
Security screens can use specialised retaining systems and fasteners, so the right tool for that job may be completely different.
The general rule is:
Use the right tool for the job.
A screwed-in screen needs the appropriate screwdriver bit.
A security screen may need a security screen specialist or locksmith.
Some fly screens need nothing more than your fingers.
And some stubborn fly screens need a specialist fly screen removal tool.
So when do you need a specialist tool?
The majority of fly screens don't need one. That's worth saying.
There are plenty of screens that come out perfectly well with your fingers.
But after 25 years of window cleaning, I've found there are always those screens.
The one with no pull tab.
The one that's fitted extremely tightly.
The one with almost no gap.
The one that's been stuck in place for years.
The one held on with Velcro that's stronger than your fingers.
That's where having the right tool can save a lot of frustration.
The XPRT Fly Screen Remover
I originally came across the idea because a shop that sold window cleaning equipment had previously stocked a similar tool that had gone out of production.
They had sold a lot of them and customers were still asking for them.
As a window cleaner, I understood why. You don't necessarily need the tool every day.
But when you come across that one stubborn screen, you really don't want to be without it.
The XPRT Fly Screen Remover is a specialist tool for getting out stubborn fly screens.
It isn't intended to replace normal removal methods. It's for the screens where fingers aren't enough.
How the XPRT Fly Screen Remover works
The leading edge is approximately 0.8 mm thick, allowing it to get into very narrow joints.
Once the tip is inserted, the handle can be moved away from the mesh, approximately 90 degrees.
This turns the tip behind the screen frame.
You can then pull the handle towards you, bringing the screen with it.
If the joint is particularly tight, a gentle tap can help drive the tip into the gap.
The important part of the design is the 73 mm wide prying end.
A narrow tool concentrates force over a small area. That's not ideal when you're dealing with a relatively lightweight aluminium fly screen frame that can buckle or dent.
The wider end spreads the force over a larger section of the frame.
Why not just use a screwdriver?
I've done it. And I've regretted it.
A flat-head screwdriver can sometimes get into a gap, but it's a narrow metal tool. You're concentrating force into a small area, and the metal can scratch the frame or surrounding surfaces.
I've had the unpleasant experience of discovering small scratches that didn't simply rub out with a finger.
That's not a great feeling when you're cleaning someone else's house.
There are also metal tools on the market that are essentially shaped like small bottle openers.
The problem is that they can be too narrow to distribute the force properly, while also being too thick to get into some of the very small gaps you encounter with tightly fitted screens.
The XPRT tool was designed specifically around that problem.
We tested the strength
The original discontinued tool that inspired the XPRT version was also made from plastic.
I wanted to see how the two compared.
Both tools were the same basic dimensions.
I placed the tip of each tool in a vice and bent the handle through its natural arc until the plastic began to deform.
I measured the force required using a weight scale and recorded the test on video.
The old fly screen remover began to deform at just under 2 kg of force. The XPRT Fly Screen Remover required just over 5 kg, more than 2.5 times the force.
The XPRT version was also redesigned to improve the ergonomics and uses stronger moulded plastic.
A simple approach to removing any unfamiliar fly screen
If you're a window cleaner, homeowner or anyone else dealing with a screen you've never seen before, this is the approach I'd recommend.
1. Work out how it's fixed
Look for springs, tabs, plungers, clips, channels or other retaining mechanisms.
2. Find the safest place to remove it
If it can be removed safely from inside instead of outside, that's usually preferable.
3. Release the retaining mechanism
Don't start bending or prying until you've released anything designed to hold the screen in place.
4. Try the simplest method first
Many screens come out with your fingers.
5. If it doesn't move, reassess
Don't just increase the force.
Ask yourself what is actually stopping it.
6. Use the appropriate tool
If the screen is screwed in, use a screwdriver.
If it's a security screen, get the appropriate specialist.
If it's a stubborn fly screen with a tiny gap, missing pull tab or difficult retaining system, a specialist fly screen removal tool may be the right choice.
7. Be careful when the screen releases
Especially when working at heights.
A screen can come free much more suddenly than you expect.
Safety when removing fly screens
Don't put yourself in danger just to remove a fly screen.
If a screen is on a ladder and requires awkward handling, it may be better left to someone experienced.
Remember, removing it is only half the problem. You then have to safely carry the screen down the ladder and potentially climb back up and put it back in again.
If you're inside and the screen is designed to push outward when released, make sure you have a firm hold of it before it comes free.
Where appropriate, a secondary restraint can provide additional security against the screen falling.
If the screen is extremely tight or you're unsure how it is retained, it's often better to leave it in place and find another way to clean the window.
A final tip from 25 years of window cleaning
If you see several similar screens on the same house, it's reasonable to assume they'll work the same way.
But don't rely on that assumption completely. I've seen houses where most of the screens are one design, but one has been manufactured slightly differently or simply fits tighter.
So learn the first one, but check each screen before you commit to the same technique.
Someone got the screen in there in the first place.
It's very rare that a fly screen is genuinely impossible to remove.
Sometimes you just need to work out what you're missing.
Frequently asked questions
Can all fly screens be removed?
No. Fly screens use many different retaining systems. Some are easy to remove with your fingers, while others require a particular technique or specialist tool.
What if my fly screen has no pull tab?
A missing pull tab can make removal difficult because there may be very little to grip. Depending on the screen design, a specialist fly screen removal tool may be able to get into the gap and provide purchase.
What if my fly screen is stuck?
First identify why it is stuck. Dirt, insects, paint, an oversized frame or an unreleased retaining mechanism can all cause problems. Avoid simply applying more force.
Can I use a screwdriver to remove a fly screen?
Only in some situations, but it's not ideal. A narrow metal screwdriver can concentrate force into a small area and potentially scratch or dent the frame or surrounding surface.
What if the screen is too tight?
Don't force it. A frame can sometimes be carefully flexed, but excessive bending can permanently buckle it. If it is extremely tight, consider leaving it in place or getting someone experienced to remove it.
What if the sliding window is blocking the screen?
Some window designs require the sliding window to be removed before the screen can come out. This is particularly common in project-homes with aluminium window frames.
Can I remove a security screen with a fly screen removal tool?
No. Security screens are a different type of product and may use specialised fasteners and retaining systems. Contact the manufacturer, a security screen company or, where appropriate, a locksmith.
Should I remove a fly screen from a ladder?
Only if you are experienced and can do so safely. Remember that you then have to carry the screen down the ladder as well. If removing it creates a fall or dropping hazard, find a safer method.
What if I can't remove the screen safely?
Leave it in place if necessary. Depending on the window, you may still be able to clean the glass and screen sufficiently without removing it.
Need a specialist tool for a stubborn fly screen?
XPRT Fly Screen Remover
Designed specifically for those difficult screens where fingers aren't enough.
0.8 mm leading edge, wide prying end, strong moulded plastic construction, designed to provide broad purchase on stubborn fly screens.
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